It is that awkward time of year when waning winter struggles in vain for supremacy over the emergence of spring. Lust Creek can be a full day hike with links over Lusk Pass to Jumpingpound Creek at Powderface Trail and beyond, or access to Baldy Pass from the north. On this day I will drive south on Kananaskis Trail (Hwy 40) and turn left onto Sibbald Creek Trail (Hwy 68) for a short 2 KM (1.3 mile) drive to the Lusk Creek Day Use and Picnic Area. The trailhead for my short 4 KM (2.5 mile) interpretive hike is obvious.
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This trail, alternatively and intermittently, is wet, dry, muddy or snow and ice-covered. There is a tiny bit of gentle ascent leading through forest, on clearly marked trail with periodic, informative, interpretive plaques which instruct on the many reasons forest is harvested. The trail contours down to the side of Lusk Creek then rises, past the large culvert under Sibbald Creek Trail. The trail resumes on the opposite side of the road. Look right.
There is an outstanding view of Mount Yamnuska in morning sun and the well-defined trail leads to an old forestry road for about 1 KM (0.6 miles) where the trail takes off to the left at another interpretive plaque. This road continues to an intersection with the Baldy Pass Trail, then on to the Barrier Lake Field Station. This extension of the University of Calgary is in the same location as the Colonel’s Cabin and a Second World War POW Camp.
The story of this short, easy hike, suitable for beginning hikers, or for families with young children, is told by periodic, informative and interesting interpretive plaques.
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Early spring trail conditions on the Lusk Creek Interpretive Trail
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Mount Baldy in the background
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Barrier Lake
Behind Barrier Lake, on the other side of the dam, McConnell Ridge hosts the Barrier Fire Lookout. The return to the Lust Creek Day Use Area is by the same trail.
Back at the old forestry road there appears to be an alternate return trail possibility. I decide to take the rogue trail and discover it leads to the Stoney Creek Group Campground.
An alternate return trail
The Lusk Creek Interpretive Trail is a short wilderness interlude combined with lunch at the Lusk Creek Day Area or at Sibbald Meadows Pond, a few short kilometres east on the gravel Sibbald Creek Trail (Hwy 68).
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Big Hill Springs Provincial Park is a fascinating and unique parcel of land isolated in a beautiful coulee 30 KMs (19 miles) west of Airdrie and 15 KMs (9.4 miles) east of Cochrane, Albertathen 2 KMs south of Hwy 567.
Year round streams and delicate waterfalls are perpetually fed by underground springs. Big Hill Springs Provincial Park is open to bikes and horses but the short 2.3 KM (1.4 mile) loop with an elevation gain of only 20 m (66 feet) primarily appeals to families with children, out for a stroll in a quiet, beautiful and interesting place. It is a popular place for walking dogs and birdwatchers frequent the uniquely diverse terrain. The kiosk, near the washrooms at the parking area, tells the story of tufa (pronounced too-fah).
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Immediately upon entering the trail loop, there are picnic tables, wooden bridges over multiple streams of running water and significant evidence of tufa formations built thousands of years prior. New tufa is being formed more rapidly than predecessors erode. Big Hill Springs Provincial Park is actually and actively under natural construction.
Very near the beginning of the hike there are tufa rock formations at trailside and pristine waterfalls tumbling over tufa. This is a very beautiful place where spring growth is beginning in the shallow runoff from waterfalls.
A spring-fed waterfall over tufa in Big Hill Springs Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada
A spring-fed waterfall over tufa in Big Hill Springs Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada
A spring-fed waterfall over tufa in Big Hill Springs Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada
There are nearly endless opportunities for photographs along the streams which provide the constant and relaxing sound of water rushing over rock.
Shortly into the hike, historical concrete foundations from an old Alberta creamery are overwhelmed by fresh spring-fed water accompanied by melting snow.
The bridge past the remains of the old creamery leads to robust waterfalls over tufa lined with contrasting ice and moss as the final vestiges of winter share the youth of spring.
Another cascading waterfall over tufa in Big Hill Springs Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada
Another cascading waterfall over tufa in Big Hill Springs Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada
Occasional sections of quiet water above cascading waterfalls host brilliant green flora suspended over stream bottoms by still, virtually invisible, crystal-clear, cold water. The images are mesmerizing in their simplicity and delicate beauty. The ambience is surreal.
As I continue counterclockwise around the Big Hill Springs Provincial Park loop, a path, branching to the right, leads to a hill. Although not part of the loop, I expect I may gain excellent views and perspective from the higher position at the hill-top. Up I go.
It is worth the short climb and an array of human and game paths, lined with new crocuses at the top, allow an alternate return descent to the creek.
Looking back towards the parking area and the beginning of the stream-side trail
The view ahead to trail through new features at Big Hill Springs Provincial Park from the top of the hill.
Just prior to the ascent portion of the main trail there is a large tufa dam.
The Tufa Dam at Big Hill Springs Provincial Park, Alberta, Canada
The loop trail continues uphill into predominantly aspen forest. An interesting structure off-trail catches the corner of my eye and brings back memories of splendid, secret forts constructed in my own imaginative youth. It is good that some things stay the same.
The trail through forest at the top of the hill occasionally shelters snow and eventually leads to broad, compromised switchbacks which descend to the parking area.
Back at the parking area, a yellow sign at a fence on the flat, grassy plain is too far away to read. A short, end-of-hike walk to the fence reveals some of the valley park land has been leased for grazing. I resist the urge to breach the fence and settle for photos of the peaceful valley floor. It is a fitting end to a unique hiking experience a short drive from Calgary.
For many years, it is my understanding Big Hill Springs Provincial Park was held as a closely guarded secret by local residents in Airdrie and Cochrane. It is easy to see why this little treasure was protected. The park is tiny and vulnerable to excess traffic. There is simply no room for crowds. During my visit, I noticed the little park is suffering under the strain with a matrix of off-trail paths and shortcuts across the downhill switchbacks that will exacerbate main trail erosion. The beautiful little park is a victim of excess traffic and disrespect. I hope park administration, perhaps with the help and cooperation of a hiking club and/or citizens of nearby towns will be able to restore the park to its original beauty.
Like Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park, near Cochrane, Alberta,Big Hill Springs Provincial Park is a gem a short, inexpensive drive from Calgary, Cochrane and Airdrie to an oasis of natural beauty, where the pace of daily life can be temporarily paused to allow reacquainting with the soul. Your inner child will thank you.
The Bow River Loop in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park near Cochrane, Alberta, Canada is accessed on foot via a controlled crossing over the frequently busy Canadian Pacific Railway transcontinental rail line.
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The Bow River Loop is a figure-eight configuration at south-centre of the park between the Canadian Pacific Railway line and the north shore of the winding Bow River.
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The east section of the Bow River Loop is 2.5 KMs (1.6 miles) in length and nearly flat. The gravel path circumvents a large grassland plateau a few feet above the Bow River.
The south side of the path follows along the more forested north shore of the Bow River. Although the views on this early spring day could be described as beautifully bland, spring foliage and fall colours will undoubtedly add character and colour to the hike.
There are occasional stands of trees along the river bank and where rippled land allows water to settle long enough for roots to take hold.
On this day, the emerald Bow River is still lined with thick, winter ice which will soon dissipate as the thaw relentlessly continues and summer warmth approaches.
On the other (south) side of the Bow River is the historic Bow River Horse Ranchewith its stone barn dating back to 1895. Although this impressive ranch is not part of Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park, they were important and influential members within the Glenbow Community.
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As the easterly section of the Bow River Loop approaches Glenbow Trail, two interesting, interpretive plaques provide information about Glenbow Townsite and the Glenbow Stone Quarry.
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From this location there is a good view to the north-east of the old Glenbow Stone Quarry location. Perhaps more important is the fact there are, mercifully, washrooms nearby at the junction of east Bow River Loop with Glenbow Trail.
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The 3.0 KM (1.9 mile) west section of the Bow River Loop is also wedged between the Canadian Pacific Railway line and the north shore of the Bow River. This land is more animated and, towards the most westerly part, there are river views of formidable cliffs I have not previously seen from any other vantage point. They are reminiscent of the Banff Hoodoos near Anthracite and the Scarborough Bluffs on the north shore of Lake Ontario.
The cliffs are within Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park where the Bowbend Trail and the railroad line travel above them to the east of Waverley Chimney.
Along the top of the west Bow River Loop an old structure struggles to remain upright. It appears to be a livestock loading platform for the rail line but, quite frankly, I am guessing.
Cattle have been grazing heavily in this area. I am practising my cow paddie two-step. The park is a working ranch so footstep navigation must be combined with sightseeing. Along the top of west Bow River Loop there are several dips. The old Glenbow Store on the other side of the railroad tracks is inaccessible and there is never a good view of more than the top of it.
The entire Bow River Loop from the Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park parking area would be a relaxing hike of just over 11.0 KMs (6.9 miles) with most of the elevation descending and ascending Glenbow Trail. I believe there are better options but the Bow River Loop is a gentle walk with excellent river views. The only access to the Bow River Loop is via the single Canadian Pacific Railway controlled crossing.
Clearly, snow-laden mountain ranges west of Cochrane are visible this day under sunny skies and the telephoto lens compresses their 60 KM (38 mile) distance and draws them closer to the grassland foothills in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park.
Ice lined Bow River backed by snow-capped mountains from Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park near Cochrane, Alberta, Canada
The Rocky Mountains from Tiger Lily Loop Lookout at Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park - Cochrane, Alberta, Canada
As I hike solo and pass the Park Visitor Centre to gracefully descend into the valley on Glenbow Trail paved path, I notice, for the first time, there is a good visual of the Calgary City’s skyline and the white patch and ski jump towers of Canada Olympic Park located directly across the street from where I live.
The Calgary City Skyline and Canada Olympic Park from Glenbow Trail
Today, I will hang a left from Glenbow Trail to hike east along the north side of the Yodel Loop Trail. Winter scenery has unique features on this relatively level trail in a coulee surrounded by grassland hills and patches of forest where limited water collects. The nature of this land will make each season a uniquely beautiful and different experience.
The lower altitude portion of the Yodel Loop Trail at the junction with Glenbow Trail
Trees rising from a partially iced creek create parallel shadows across the path as the Yodel Loop trail winds its way alongside to an inevitable creek crossing near my initial objective at the junction of Scott Trail. At the creek crossing there is a bit of trail erosion and shallow, running water shows off once-in-a-lifetime ice formations created by overnight freezing.
At the junction a short distance past Yodel Loop, I turn left and begin the climb north up paved path on Scott Trail. Awesome scenery unfolds as I gain altitude rapidly to an interpretive viewpoint overlooking the Bow River towards Calgary, across the Bow River, west over Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park to the mountains and the inhabited, heritage Hertford Home slightly above me.
The Corrals - Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park, Cochrane, Alberta, Canada from part way up Scott Trail
Hertford Ranch Historical Heritage Site in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park
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Further along, past historic Hertford Ranch, the paved trail ends and a gravel road winds right, around and up to sweeping views of surrounding landscape. The road ends at gated private property with a typical prairie view of old sheds on prairie grassland.
Old sheds from the gate at the top of the gravel road extension on Scott Trail. This view epitomizes prairie grassland.
The Bow River, Calgary skyline, and Calgary Olympic Park from near the top of Scott Trail
The view west from high on Scott Trail in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park
There are mysteries visible in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park. My inner child wants to get off-trail and explore them with every fibre of my being but they are fenced off as Ministerial Closures with significant financial penalty for non-compliance so my exploration is limited to the range of my camera lens. Perhaps these areas will be developed further as the park matures.
I descend Scott Trail past the Corrals at the junction with Glenbow Trail and continue south to cross the Canadian Pacific Railway controlled crossing on Glenbow Trail to hike east on paved Glenbow Trail past old Glenbow Village, and the Quarry with the intention to continue through the Narrows along the Bow River to Michael’s Creek.
On Ministerial Closure lands there is an area separated by fence which serves as a Foothills Fescue Research Institute, and, on the opposite side, an interpretive plaque which identifies the location of the old Glenbow School. There is indeed a depression in the ground where the school once stood. On the other side of the Canadian Pacific Railway controlled crossing I hike the east side of the Bow River Loop but I will make a separate post on this section to divide the photographs.
Continuing east, there is a gradually sloping descent from the plateau above the Bow River to near water level on my hike east towards the Quarry where sandstone was extracted in the early 1900s to aid in the construction of the Calgary ‘s original Land Titles Office and Courthouse as well as portions of the Alberta Legislative and Government House in Edmonton, Alberta.
What remains of the old Quarry sits about two-thirds of the way up the slope on the treed, off-limit terrace.
The Glenbow Trail is closed just east of the Quarry due to spring flooding. This is common when spring ice can dam and divert the river onto higher ground. My visit through The Narrows and on to Michael’s Creek must wait for another day when I can possibly return for spring colour on a bicycle tour.
The viewpoint just east of the Quarry at the trail closure
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On my return, there are excellent views of ice platforms perched on top of sand bars in the Bow River. Calgary Olympic Park is visibly nearby. I will hike the west side of the figure-eight Bow River Loop prior to ascending the Glenbow Trail to the Glenbow Ranch Visitor Centre near the parking area. Sun, settling into the western sky, creates dramatic lighting on the old Glenmore Store.
The Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park Visitor Centre.
This thoroughly satisfying day has consumed just over 17 KMs (10.6 miles) on primarily flat trail with occasional, gentle elevation under sunny skies. The Bow River Loop will be covered in a subsequent post. My elevated opinion of Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park has not changed.
The entrance to Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park is south on Glenbow Road from Hwy 1A (Crowchild Trail) onto 3 KM (1.9 miles) of scenic, gravel road heading south through private land, and terminating at a large, well-signed parking area surrounded by tall Alberta prairie grass. Ewa and I are eager to begin our hike following the fog induced delay spent productively at Cochrane Ranche.
A short walk past old farm buildings leads to the Park Office where there are exhibits of historical significance. A map, which is available in a PDF file on the Glenbow Ranch Provincial Parkwebsite, Can be purchased at the Park Office for a nominal fee which also supports further development and maintenance at the park. Voluntary contributions are gratefully received. A park representative is in attendance to answer questions and provide advice but only on Saturday and Sunday in the off-season. Check ahead.
Ewa and I begin by descending the Glenbow Trail, past the last lingering frost on trees in a sheltered cove, to the trail junction where we will branch left and climb to the viewpoints on the high, south side of the Yodel Loop. At major trail junctions there are large maps of the park which show current location. Navigation is easy.
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The first viewpoint looks south from a ridge top over expansive grassland to the Bow River and the river valley beyond. A focal point is the old Glenbow Store, stubbornly still standing beside the ruins of the old brick factory.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
The old Glenbow Store is adjacent to the Canadian Pacific Railway transcontinental rail line which runs through the park. Today the rail line is busy as several trains thunder through during our 3 hour hike in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park.
The surrounding hills hosted the homes of wealthy cattle ranchers. One of the hills above the coulee was called Millionaire Hill for Chester Rhoades de la Vergne who moved here from New York City in 1908 to establish a successful sheep and horse ranch.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
As we hike east across the top of the ridge on the Yodel Loop there are spectacular views to the coulee on our left and the river valley to our right. The rich earth colours of early spring are striking. Soon, Ewa and I arrive at the second viewpoint which overlooks the Corrals.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
We descend off the ridge on the Yodel Loop Trail and intersect with the Scott Trail before turning south to the Corrals, then west on the Glenbow Trail where interpretive plaques explain the history of the Corrals.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
A half kilometre further west on the Glenbow Trail, we pass remnants of an old industrial complex and foundations, which were once part of the Glenbow Valley Brick Plant. A short spur trail leads directly to close views of the old Glenbow Store. A long freight train rumbling past lends ambience to the skeletons which were once the heart of a thriving community in days long gone.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
Further west we arrive at a trailside, frozen pond which separates the intersection of the Tiger Lily Loop Trail and Badger Bowl Trails with Glenbow Trail. Ewa and I will pass these trails by and continue west along the Bowbend Trail where we enjoy another passing freight train. When I was a young boy, growing up in Northern Ontario, there was a busy rail line directly behind our home and I would run to wave to the engineers of the massive, smokey coal-fired engines. The engineers always waved back, as they do today, from diesel-electric powered locomotives, and I fondly reflect on those joyous times, decades ago, when men in charge of large, thundering machines gave a moment of their time to acknowledge the presence of a small boy’s wonder.
A trailside interpretive exhibit explains the process of soil erosion which creates the staircase slopes on nearby hill sides.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
The Bowbend Trail leads to Waverley Chimney where another interpretive plaque documents the history of early settlers. The Bowbend Trail turns sharply north on paved cycle/ hiking trail for the switchback ascent to a right turn onto Bowl Link which tops out at a viewpoint called Windmill Lookout. From here there are expansive views of the Bow River Valley to Cochrane and well beyond.
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
At the Windmill Lookout, with expansive views over the park, Ewa and I learn about the area’s geology and the Bighill Creek Formation. We learn mammoths roamed this land 13,000 years ago. Camels and ancient horses lived here as well. Ewa and I observe a large herd of cattle being led home in a long uphill line as we descend southeast through picturesque hills on the Badger Bowl Trail
Click on the photo to learn more about the history of Glenbow Ranch near Cochrane, Alberta
After descending the Badger Bowl Trail, Ewa and I ascend the west side of the Tiger Lily Loop Trail, first through typical grassland then into leafless forest which has provided sufficient shelter to keep a bit snow and ice on the trail.
About halfway up the hill, I glance to my left and notice ’old artifacts’ scattered in the forest. Like my father, I love a good dump and am therefore compelled to root around in the forest above the trail to see what can be discovered while Ewa exhibits elevated common sense and continues climbing to the Lookout at the top of Tiger Lily Loop.
From the top of Tiger Lily Loop there are expansive views across Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park to the south, over the Bow River, and west, towards Cochrane and the Rocky Mountains which are buried in haze and accumulating cloud cover.
I take the time to do a short video of the sweeping view from Tiger Lily Loop, first to the south from the Lookout above Tiger Lily Loop, then panning to the northeast over Cochrane, Alberta. The camera microphones pick up the slight breeze and the video is jerky as I am wedged between two fences and my backpack gets stuck as I try to rotate.
Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park has left me impressed. It is an easy day of hiking for a broad range of age and physical capability. Hikers can do as little or as much as they choose. There are several picnic locations.
It is a gold mine of educational opportunity for inquisitive minds. Ewa and I hiked about 12 KM (7.5 miles) and I would estimate our gross elevation for the day, accumulated in small increments as we climb and descend small hills, to be about 457 m (1,500 ft). We have left quite a bit of trail to hike another day, mainly to the east on the Glenbow Trail past Glenbow Village and The Narrows, and adjacent to the Bow River on the figure-eight Bow River Loop. I am looking forward to exploring these trails in the near term before spring foliage arrives.
Some of the trail in Glenbow Ranch Provincial Park is bicycle friendly but there are restrictions and bicycle racks are frequently visible at trail intersections where travel by bicycle is prohibited. A plan would be wise. I am curious if the Bearspaw Trail provides a complete link between Calgary and Cochrane.
Donations to the Glenbow Ranch Park Foundation are appreciated and will assist further development of the park as a valuable historical resource for future generations.
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