At 5:12 AM on April 18, 1906, the city of San Francisco is decimated by a 7.9 magnitude earthquake. Raging fire destroys more than it should because a large percentage of domestic water supplies are obliterated. As part of the recovery, new water supplies are deemed mandatory and urgent.
Mel and I leave the historic gold-mining town of Coulterville and drive east, then north, on Greeley Hill Road (J132), also known as the John Muir Highway. As we climb into the High Sierra, we turn east on Hwy 120, take Hetch Hetchy Road, enter the spectacular Stanislaus National Forest, and ride the crest above the expansive Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River.
The beginning of the Stanislaus National Forest - California, USA
Fire in California is pervasive. Tinder dry forest, combined with ferocious wind and steep slopes, create nearly impossible situations. Monuments to brave, courageous and dedicated people who gave their lives are commonly placed at roadside near fire locations.
Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River - Stanislaus National Forest - California, USA
Camp Mather precedes the entrance to the northwest portion of Yosemite National Park. Hetch Hetchy Road narrows and descends on twisting road, against rock wall, to the loop at O’Shaughnessy Dam and the small parking area beyond. The name Hetch Hetchy is a derivative of the Miwok Indian word ‘hatchhatchie’ which means ‘edible grasses’.
Mel and I park and absorb the view of the Tuolumne River flowing west through the incredibly beautiful Poopenaut Valley, filling up with mid-morning sun.
The Tuolumne River flows west through the Poopenaut Valley in The Grand Canyon of the Tuolumne River
As we walk east towards the O’Shaughnessy Dam containing the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, the enormity and grandeur of the facility become overwhelmingly apparent. Following the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake, Congress passes the Raker Act in 1913 authorizing the damming of Hetch Hetchy Valley in spite of massive opposition to the project spearheaded by Yosemite naturalist, developer and defender John Muir. He garnered support from the Sierra Club, as well as every environmental organization and most States in the United States. In addition to the obvious impact to the natural beauty of Hetch Hetchy Valley, an additional and important point of contention was the illegality of creating a commercial project on protected National Park land. John Muir, who devoted a good portion of his life to developing and preserving Yosemite National Park died on December 24, 1914 at the age of 76. Some say he died of a broken heart for his loss in the battle to save Hetch Hetchy.
San Francisco’s Chief Engineer Michael O’Shaughnessy is charged with the responsibility for construction. Beginning in 1914, it is a monumental undertaking involving the construction of a 68 mile (109 KM) railroad, a 156 mile (251 KM) aqueduct and 85 miles (136 KM) of tunnel in addition to the dam which will capture the outflow of the Tuolumne River from a Yosemite watershed of 459 square miles. The first phase, bringing the O’Shaughnessy Dam to a height of 227 ft ( 69 m), is completed in 1923. The second and final phase of dam construction is completed in 1938 and now the eight-mile long Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, held back by a concrete, 312 foot-high (95 m) arch-gravity dam, contains 117 billion gallons of water supplying 2.5 million residents, and industries, of the San Francisco Bay area with electrical power and water. Michael O’Shaughnessy dies on October 12, 1934, just 16 days before the first water arrives at San Francisco from the dam at Hetch Hetchy that bears his name.
As Mel and I walk across the top of the 900 foot-wide (270 m) O’Shaughnessy Dam, we will photograph numerous interpretive exhibits and the spectacular views in alternative directions.
The view east over the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir from the top of the O'Shaughnessy Dam - Yosemite National Park
The view west from the top of O'Shaughnessy Dam over Tuolumne River, and the Poopenaut Valley.
The view straight down the O'Shaughnessy Dam, slightly right of center
The need for the water supply is urgent as San Francisco and the Bay Area continue to grow rapidly. A 68-mile-long, standard gauge railway is constructed so visitors, work crews, and materials like concrete and lumber, can be brought to the construction site expeditiously. At the end of the project, the Shay 6 locomotive engine makes its final trip in 1947 before the railroad tracks and infrastructure are removed.
From the north end of O'Shaughnessy Dam, looking east along the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, Kolana Rock is on photo right and Hetch Hetchy Dome is near photo center on the far side of Wapama Falls.
On the north side of the O’Shaughnessy Dam, a tunnel leads through the rock border to a hiking trail along the north shore of the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.
Views of the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir from the far side of the tunnel, down the length of the waterway with surrounding mountains, become increasingly spectacular.
This is my favorite photograph from the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir collection. Sunbeam. Right place - right time.
The trail follows the north shore to Tueeulala Falls and Wapama Falls. The moderate hike to Wapama Falls is 5 miles (8 KM) round trip from O’Shaughnessy Dam with an elevation gain of 300 ft (91.4 m). Mel and I hike only partway but the following telephoto pictures provide a glimpse of the thundering white water of Wapama Falls plummeting 1, 400 ft (426.7 m) into the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir. The trail continues past the base of Hetch Hetchy Dome across Tiltill Creek and north to Tiltill Valley then past Mount Gibson to Tiltill Mountain, or alternatively, across Rancheria Creek to Rancheria Falls 6.7 miles (10.7 KM) one way from O’Shaughnessy Dam.
The spectacular white water of Wapama Falls roars 1,400 ft (426.7 m) down the west side of Hetch Hetchy Dome into the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir.
A long shot of Wapama Falls taken from O'Shaughnessy Dam across the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir in Yosemite National Park
Mel and I hike back to the car by the same route. We drive the narrow, winding, paved road carved into the side of Poopenaut Valley. There are no guard rails. Mel’s Dodge Charger is not a small car and without opposing traffic we can establish a safety margin by driving in the middle of the road. When any vehicle approaches, on their descent to the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, they hug the inside rock wall and we move to the outside edge of the road suspended over the steep, 1,300 ft (396 m) wall of Poopenaut Valley. If we slip over the edge, there will be no doubt in my mind. I am definitely poopin’. It is not for the faint of heart when two larger vehicles need to pass on the narrowest sections of the road.
The Poopenaut Valley in Hetch Hetchy - Yosemite National Park, California, USA.
Our visit to Hetch Hetchy is little more than a reconnaissance mission. There are plenty of outstanding hiking opportunities here. A few of the most popular and accessible hikes include Wapama Falls, Rancheria Falls, Poopenaut Valley from Hetch Hetchy Road, and Lookout Point, or Cottonwood Meadow and 7,751 foot (2,363 m) Smith Peak south-east of the landmark Kolana Rock. Additionally, there are many multi-day backpacking missions in Hetch Hetchy. An example would be the awesome scenery of the 29 mile (46.4 KM) Laurel Lake/Vernon Lake/Rancheria Loop. There is no shortage of opportunity and the Hetch Hetchy area, by nature of its remoteness, provides more of a wilderness experience in the High Sierra of Yosemite National Park.
Mel and I begin our return drive home to Edmonton and Calgary, Alberta, Canada, first on the Hetch Hetchy Road, then on Big Oak Flat Road to Hwy 120 for a stop at the General Store in Groveland, California where we purchase three bottles of 2009 Crane Lake Chardonnay. This quite respectable wine boasts being winner at the 2011 State Fair. The total cost for three bottles is $10.00. We are driving on Hwy 120 through beautiful forest and historic towns whose authenticity is compromised by little more than modern vehicles. Driving California backcountry is a fabulous experience which takes us back to the simpler and less stressful times of a century ago. We swing north on Hwy 120 and drive past places with names of Mocassin and Chinese Camp.
As we pass the Don Pedro Lake Recreation Area we learn about a fascinating feature of this reservoir along the Tuolumne River which provide water and power to the growing metropolis of The San Francisco Bay Area.
One small section at the end of the Don Pedro Lake Reservoir, California
Don Pedro Lake is created by construction of the Don Pedro Dam on the Tuolumne River. Beneath its surface lies the old mining town of Jacksonville, California. In 1850, Jacksonville was the principal river town in the area.
The battle surrounding Hetch Hetchy Reservoir in Yosemite National Park continues. The Don Pedro Lake complex may provide the opportunity to reclaim Hetch Hetch Valley by removing the O’Shaughnessy Dam. John Muir would be proud of those who follow in his footsteps. You can access information about reclaiming Hetch Hetch Valley at this link to the Sierra Club. If you choose to visit Hetch Hetchy, you may decide to support the cause. It is an incredibly beautiful place.
Mel and I will complete this day with a short 35 mile (56 KM) drive west through the desert on Hwy 120/108 from Don Pedro Lake to Oakdale, California, where the pool at our Motel 6 provides welcome relief from the heat before dinner at the nearby Denny’s Restaurant.
It is another grand day. Early to bed; early to rise. Tomorrow will be a driving day.
Free subscription to Hiking With Barry
Pingback: Yosemite National Park Trip Epilogue - Hiking California